Archive for the ‘General Boating & Maintenance Tips’ Category

With the passing of the recent Labor Day holiday, many of us are faced with the ominous task of preparing our boats to be laid up for the winter. Winter can be harsh on a boat, and if you want to get out on the water next spring without any unwelcome surprises, it’s important to store it properly.

• HERE’S HOW YOU CAN WINTERIZE YOUR BOAT ENGINE

Fill the fuel tank with fresh non-ethanol gasoline. Add a sufficient amount of gasoline stabilizer which is specified for marine engines and then run the engine sufficiently to bring it up to normal operating temperature while allowing the treated/stabilized fuel to circulate through fuel system.

• LUBRICATION

Change oil and oil filter. Lubricate all items like Throttle and Shift Cables, Steering, Coupler, U-Joints, Transom, Gimbal, Propeller Shaft, etc.

• MARINE COOLING SYSTEMS

Flush the cooling system. Refer to each manufacturers specific flushing procedure as indicated in the owners manual. Drain seawater section of cooling system, as specified in the owners manual.

• FLAME ARRESTOR

Clean flame arrestor and vent hoses.

• GENERAL ITEMS

Service the batteries as required by the manufacturer of the battery. Wash/Clean the outside of engine and allow to dry. Repaint any areas where bare metal is exposed, and allow to dry. Completely cover/spray the engine with some type of corrosion inhibitor or wipe down with SAE 20W engine oil or spray with WD-40.

• STERNDRIVE AND TRANSOM

Inspect U-joint bellows for cracks or weathering.
Check the bellow hose clamps to ensure they are tight.
Check engine alignment.
Change sterndrive unit oil.
Make sure the Sterndrive is in the DOWN position. This is required not only for draining of the unit but also to ensure that the bellows do not take a set which can lead to pre-mature failure when returned to service.
Use a piece of wire to check that water drain holes in sterndrive unit are open and allowing drainage.
Clean sterndrive exterior surfaces and repaint any bare metal surfaces.
Cover the entire sterndrive with some type of corrosion inhibitor.

Read More about Winterization of Mercruiser Inboard & Sterndrive Engines

Read More about Winterization of Yamaha 4-stroke Outboards

COMMON PRODUCTS WHEN WINTERIZING YOUR BOAT

MARINE FUEL SYSTEMS SHOP NOW FLAME ARRESTOR SHOP NOW

COOLING SYSTEM SHOP NOW STRENDRIVE & TANSOM SHOP NOW

Not finding what you’re looking for? Need help? Contact us at 1-405-533-3812

QUICK LINKS

Engine Flushing Systems    Motor Flushers    Boat Care Products Lubricants & Engine Additives    Corrosion Protection    Fuel Additives Cleaners & Degreasers    Trailer Accessories

CONNECT WITH US           PERFORMANCE PRODUCT TECHNOLOGIES

Inflatable luxury fishing motorboat wrapped in cover standing over trailer for winter period seasonal storage at backyard. Shrink-wrapped vessel winterized on parking.

Winter can be harsh on a boat, and if you want to get out on the water next spring without any unwelcome surprises, it’s important to store it properly. Not only will cold water and ice cause expensive damage, but improper boat storage can also leave it vulnerable to theft or damage from a storm. When spring arrives next year, you don’t want to spend time scrubbing mildew and fixing the engine – you’d rather be all set to get back on the boat. Here is how to store your boat through the winter.

Secure all items and seal your boat

The right boat storage includes removing any valuable items from your boat, including electronic guidance systems if possible, to protect them from extreme weather and theft. You should also remove anything that could be prone to mildew and mold over the winter, such as flotation devices. Once you’ve removed all loose items, wrap the boat using boat wrap and cover it with a custom waterproof cover that fits snuggly. If the cover is too loose and saggy, water can collect in parts and damage the cover. Even if you’re storing your boat inside, a cover can protect it from unexpected roof leaks.

Fuel treatment

Fuel treatment is also a necessary step for boat storage. Treating your boat’s fuel with a stabilizer will keep it fresh for long-term storage (usually up to 24 months). This will prevent you from having to waste a tank of fuel at the end of each season.  Also, it guarantees quick and easy start-ups after storage.  Additionally, it ensures that the carburetors and fuel injectors won’t be clogged with varnish deposits. This kind of build-up can ruin your fuel system.

Boat Lift

Boat lifts offer you the ability to store your boat high and dry yet ready for use in minutes. However, lifts do not fare well in hurricanes and strong nor’easters. Wind waves and surges can shift the boat, and torrential rains or heavy snow can increase the boat’s weight to the point of breaking the lift. One way to avert these problems is to keep your boat on a trailer—but if you desire to keep your boat on a lift, make sure that the lift is well maintained, of the correct capacity, and that the boat is properly covered to keep rain and snow out.

Because boats stored on lifts are surrounded by air, they are more vulnerable to a sudden freeze than boats surrounded by water. This means that you will either have to winterize the boat or implement measures, such as a bilge or engine room heater, to avert damage should a freeze occur.

Engine Drainage

Most boat engines use surrounding water to cool the engine as it runs.  If the engine isn’t drained properly, residual water in the cooling chambers can freeze, expand, and crack the engine block and manifolds. This can spell disaster for your wallet, as repairs for this kind of damage can run you $5,000-$20,000 depending on the kind of boat you have.

The boat storage balancing act

Keep your boat off the ground during winter storage. Use wood blocks or keel stands to support the keel, paying careful attention to the load-bearing areas. Make sure the boat is up high enough to keep propellers and rudders off the ground.

Add several jacks stands to balance the boat, and make sure those stands are supported against wind and storms. If you opt for outdoor storage, cover the boat with a tarp or vinyl cover for protection from the elements. Make sure the cover is vented enough for airflow, but secure enough to stay on your boat all winter.

Remove your battery

This is the last step for proper boat storage. Because of inconsistent use during the summer months, your boat battery may not be fully charged each time you use it. The problem is compounded if you leave it in your boat while it’s stored for the winter. More than likely, your battery will be dead when spring arrives. It’s a good idea to remove your battery and store it in a warm dry place. Consider using a trickle charger to keep your battery in good shape during the winter months.

At Performance Products Technologies, we help you to keep your boat in good shape by offering you winterization products and guidelines. Contact us to learn more and get started.

SELOC MARINE REPAIR & TUNE-UP MANUALS

Do-It-Yourself Boater’s agree that trying to repair and do maintenance on your outboard motor or Stermdrive without the proper manual is simply not a wise service repair option. All of the major marine product manufacturers such as Mercury Marine, Yamaha, Suzuki, Volvo Penta, Honda and others agree that SELOC is the only option for after-market repair and Tune-Up manuals. SELOC offers the only marine tune-up manuals to be certified as accurate and complete.

SELOC manuals are laid out for the everyday mechanic and therefore easy to understand with step-by-step, illustrated procedures for the complete dismantling, repair, and assembling of outboard motors or sterndrives. The main images and illustrations used are typically photographs that were taken when the actual work was being performed and outlined. Each numbered step procedure is accompanied by the same numbered photograph or illustration making Seloc manuals easy to follow.

Marine Service Manual Index

Select the following link to open the SELOC Table of Contents which makes it simple to lookup and order the proper repair manual for your Boat Engine or Sterndrive…..Service & Repair Manual Index

What Equipment Will I Need for Winterizing my Boat?

Where can I buy the professional type boat winterization kit/tank that many of the boating service centers use? This along with other common Boat Winterization questions will be covered in this PPT Technical Article.

The following parts list will allow you to put together a winterization system together for your own use. Otherwise you can purchase one of the Manual Systems (read more). Along with the flush hardware you’ll need a standard set of wrenches and screw drivers, muffs (motor flusher), along with a few supplies such as Engine Rust Inhibitor and Fuel System Stablizer.

PARTS LIST – PPT Winterization Tank System (Used in Tech Videos)

• Tank
• 750 GPH Pump
• Toggle Switch
• Battery Clips
• Fuse Holder
• 5amp ATO/ATC Fuse
• Electrical Butt Connectors
• (2) 16-14 gauge wires – Length is determined by if you’re using the battery in the boat [longer] or an auxiliary battery on the ground [shorter] – Obtain Locally
• Auxiliary battery or use battery in the boat – Obtain Locally

What’s The Process?

The following list is the basic checklist we recommend following when performing either sterndrive, inboard, 2-cycle or 4-cycle boat engine winterizations. Although many of the details within each step differ for each marine engine manufacturer (example Mercruiser, Volvo Penta, Crusader, Marine Power, etc) or outboard motor manufacturer (example Mercury Marine, Yamaha, Suzuki, Evinrude, Honda) the basic steps and results of what needs to be completed remain the same.  For example draining the water from a 1985 MerCruiser 4.3L engine requires different steps vs draining the water from the cooling system of a 2005 model 4.3L MPI engine equipped with one of Mercruiser’s manual or automatic drain systems. The fact that the inboard engine needs to be drained is the same but the step by step process differs. It is very IMPORTANT to review your owners manual to make certain you don’t overlook anything in particular when working through these specific steps. (Note: By using the PPT website and searching either the Online MerCuiser Parts Catalog or Mercury Outboard Parts Diagrams you can quickly locate your inboard, outboard engine or sterndrive model and then order  the service manual or owners manual by selecting the “Service and Support Material” Assembly Diagram.)

IMPORTANT: The steps listed below are best performed in the order specified below.

STERNDRIVE & INBOARD MODELS

• Add stabilizer to fuel tank (See manufacturer suggestions regarding how many ounces/gallon)
• Start engine and allow it to warm up
• Drain gear lube
• Drain engine oil
• Drain water
• Block X 2
• Manifold X 2
• “J” hose
• Oil cooler
• Fuel cooler
• Transmission cooler
• Sea water pump (belt driven)
• Drain on transmission
• Heater
• Drain on-board water tanks (ballasts, sinks, showers ext…) and fill with propylene glycol
• Change oil filter (date and initial)
• Change fuel filter (date and initial)
• Fill engine with oil
• Fill lower unit with gear lube
• Grease gimbal bearing
• Start and run engine on 100% Propylene Glycol
• Fog engine (Carb Engines Only)
• Tag engine belt (orange)
• Zip tie key to steering wheel
• Remove bilge plug from back of boat
• Trim up drive
• Turn off battery switch or remove negative battery cable
• Tag bow eye (owners name, date, and initial)

2 CYCLE OUTBOARD MOTORS

• Add fuel treatment and stabilizer to fuel tank(s) as required per gallon.
• Change water separating fuel filter, if equipped or empty sediment/water bowl if equipped.
• Run engine up to operating temperature, circulating stabilized fuel through fuel system and fog engine with a rust
• ventative solution to protect internal engine parts.
• Drain and re-fill lower unit gear lube (insures elimination of water in the lower unit which could freeze and burst).
• Grease engine fittings.

4 CYCLE OUTBOARD MOTORS

• Add fuel treatment and stabilizer to fuel tank(s) as required per gallon.
• Change water separating fuel filter, if equipped or empty sediment/water bowl if equipped.
• Change engine oil and filter.
• Run engine up to operating temperature, circulating stabilized fuel through fuel system and fog engine with a rust preventative solution to protect internal engine parts.
• Drain and re-fill lower unit gear lube (insures elimination of water in the lower unit which could freeze and burst).
• Grease engine fittings.

Need More Help? Check Out These Popular Winterization Videos?

*For over 14 years Serious Boaters have been going to PPT’s Youtube Channel for Do-It-Yourself Boating Repair Videos – Over 1 Million Views and Counting!

TOPIC: Boat/Motor Winterization

QUESTION: I used to own a boat equipped with a Mercury Outboard Motor which made winterization very simple. However I recently purchased a Sea Ray boat that is equipped with a MerCruiser Inboard/Outboard and Alpha Gen 2 Sterndrive. I’m looking to winterize my boat this year for the first time.  Is there a kit available that includes all of the items needed to do this winterization.   

RESPONSE: Below are the parts you need to build our Antifreeze Tank and Pump System. If you have a basic knowledge of 12volt wiring and how to install a simple switch into a circuit you can purchase the components and assemble it yourself.  It is not that difficult to assemble and all of the major components can be purchased from our website.

PARTS LIST:
Tank & Hose- http://tinyurl.com/pph57fb

750 GPH PUMP- http://tinyurl.com/n9mur3n -the pump threads right into the threaded tank cap – cut the excess off after installed

Toggle Switch- http://tinyurl.com/pbcyfdc

Battery Clips- http://tinyurl.com/olalnkz

Fuse Holder- http://tinyurl.com/oha2qrv

5amp ATO/ATC Fuse- http://tinyurl.com/nkcx6pj

Electrical Butt Connectors- http://tinyurl.com/p4y28yx

(2) 16-14 gauge wires [red & black] – Length is determined by if you’re using the battery in the boat [longer] or an auxiliary battery on the ground [shorter] – Obtain Locally

Auxiliary battery or use battery in the boat – Obtain Locally

Question: Why should I pay $100+ to have my sterndrive or inboard model boat winterized when I can do it myself. Isn’t draining the engine all they really do?

Answer: There’s certainly no shortage of opinions to this age old question that all boat owners north of Miami Florida face at some point in time. So let’s dig in a little and take a look.

While draining the engine is certainly a big part of the winterization process there are many other equally important items you’ll want to consider. Here’s an overview of the process we utilize when winterizing an Inboard/Sterndrive model boat and motor.

1. Drain the engine – Engine models vary along with the specific engine and manufacturer. You’ll want to follow your manufacturers instructions to make sure you don’t miss an unforeseen drain point. Reinstall the drain plugs after this step.
2. Trim the Sterndrive down if equipped – This allows the sterndrive water passage to drain.
3. Take a sample of the sterndrive gear lube. If there are any signs of water in the gear lube you’ll want to pressure test the lower unit. The associated images represent a case where the owner winterized himself and skipped this step. Although this is an extreme case with regards to the amount of water that was entering the gear lube, even a small amount of water will dilute the gear lube and fail the sterndrive in a short period of time. NOTE: On Mercruiser Alpha Sterndrives or Mercury Outboard Motors the lower drive shaft seal on the bottom side of the water pump is normally the culprit when water is in the gear lube. This following video is for a Mercury Outboard Motor but the lower unit is basically the same as the Mercruiser Alpha Sterndrive and therefore illustrates all of this very clearly.
   
4. Top off the fuel tank with ETHANOL FREE gasoline. Introduce the recommended amount of fuel storage treatment. This will vary based on the size of your fuel tank. NOTE: If you have a diesel powered boat use the proper diesel fuel and treatment.
5. Run the engine while introducing environmentally friendly Propylene Glycol Antifreeze into the coolant system. Most manufacturers recommend using a small screwdriver or piece of wire to make certain the drain holes are open when draining (see step 1). We however feel like storing the engine with antifreeze in the coolant passages is a better option than draining and leaving the engine dry over the winter because it accomplishes two important purposes. First – If there happens to be any debris remaining in the engine or exhaust system that is preventing 100% of the water from being drained, this then ensures that that trapped water gets diluted to the point it will not be an issue. Draining the engine 1st ensures that you end up with a high enough concentration of antifreeze throughout the system to adequately protect form freezing. Second – The antifreeze acts as a corrosion inhibitor to prevent corrosion during storage.
6. Fog the engine by introducing engine storage treatment directly into the fuel system to protect both the fuel system and combustion side internal engine components.
7. Disconnect the battery

Note: Different manufacturers may require different steps to be taken. This article provides a basic guide to illustrate that there is in fact more to winterization than simply draining the engine. We recommend following your manufacturers instructions.

Additional Boat Winterization Videos

Trying to dock a boat in the wind has got to be the most stressful part of boating to say the least. The only thing that makes me feel better about when the pressure is on is knowing my little 1648 Tiller Handle Jon boat is not going to do much damage to anything it hits.

I know, I know, it’s way to early to be thinking about Boat Storage issues. Or is it? I find there is no better cure for cabin fever than getting out to the garage, storage shed, or what have you and tinker with my boat. Granted, there’s not a lot you can change right now without risking wasting money on parts that may go bad sitting around waiting to hit the water, but you can make a check list and tinker a few things to make it easier to start sailing or fishing when Spring hits.

Check your fuel system for leaks, cracks, or any other visible damage. Grab hold of lines and give them a squeeze. If fuel leaks out or they show cracks, mark them on your list to change. Belts cables and hoses are also made of rubber which makes them susceptible to becoming brittle and failing on the water. Check hoses the same as fuel lines, pull and twist on belts watching for cracks or bad spots. If there are any loose belts, these you can tighten now; one less thing to do in the Spring. Run a hand and an eye over control cables paying special attention to connections and search for swells and cracks.

Inspect all your electrical components for corrosion. Use a wire brush to clean them and add a dab of grease to the outside connections to keep corrosion at bay. List all worn components and check to make sure the battery still holds charge. If it is low, put it on a charger, get it to full charge, then let it set for a few days and check the charge again. Check all your fluid levels. Now is a good time to change any that weren’t done during winterization. Look over the hull and fix any dings cracks or scratches. Check propeller bearings and change if necessary.

Finally, the most important part, safety gear. Make sure you have a well- fitting life jacket for each passenger and that they are in good condition. Make sure you have the right fire extinguishers for your boat.

Following these simple steps will make your Spring a happy launch to the boating season. For more tips and advice, contact us today.

Like all seasonal activities, the time will come when you need to put your watercraft away for the cold months. Or maybe you are simply going away for awhile and won’t be needing your boat for some time. There are several options for storing your boat, but whatever option you choose, be certain to follow these tips to ensure proper boat storage. 

• If you are storing your boat during the winter months, always follow the guidelines found in your boat’s owner manual.
• Disconnect the battery and remove it from the boat. Put the battery inside on a board, placing a trickle charge on it a couple of days a month. Clean the terminals with soda and spray with anti-corrosion liquid.
• To prevent dirty oil from sitting in the engine, it’s a good idea to change the oil and filter. The engine is a very expensive part of your boat. You want to keep it clean even when you’re not using it.
• Drain the engine’s cooling system. For closed systems, refill it with antifreeze and water solution recommended by the manufacturer. For open system boats, insert a clean garden hose into the intake opening and flush it with clean water. Locate the coolant drains and open them, allowing the system to drain completely.
• All storage lockers and hatches should be left open while your boat is in storage. This will keep air flowing so there is no stale smell when it’s time to get back on the boat.
• Take several photos of your boat, displaying the ID number in at least one picture. Take photos of any valuable equipment or other items that will remain onboard during storage. In case of damage or destruction during storage, these photos will help in processing insurance claims.
• Whether you store your boat inside or outside, always use a good, tight boat cover to protect it from the elements, including everything from sunlight to dust.
• If you store your boat outside during the winter months and it snows in your area, be sure to get out there as often as you can to brush the snow off. Especially if it is wet, heavy snow.
• Check the registrations on both your rig and your trailer, and renew them early.
• Don’t forget to protect your boat from critters, such as mice, squirrels, raccoon, opossum and even cats. Remember, a mouse or squirrel is not very large and ANY hole that they can stick their head in, they can and will enter. They have remarkable climbing ability and their agility is unbelievable for climbing, jumping and ascending down electrical cords. To prevent this, place 4 or 5 moth balls in a Dixie cup and place a cup in EVERY storage compartment, including the battery and gas tank area. However, if you do not want the lingering aroma of moth balls greeting you when you bring your boat home from storage, you might opt for Spearmint Oil or fabric softener sheets in place of the moth balls.
• Last, but not least, attend to the trailer. Jack it up and pull the wheels and hubs, and repack the bearings. If you have buddy bearings, ensure they are full. Put the trailer on blocks and store tires in the shed or garage. In addition, spray anti-corrosion on any unprotected iron.

With a little care and elbow grease, you can put that boat away confident it will be looking good when you’re ready to bring it out of storage and get it out on the water again. Keep the above tips in mind to ensure your boat is stored properly any time of the year.

For more information, or if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us at Performance Product Technologies today.

Unfortunately, Dr. Oz doesn’t have the secret formula to keep your boat looking youthful. But if you want to shave years off your boat’s appearance and keep it from aging prematurely, here is a list of things you can do to keep those liver spots at bay. 

1. Bald’N’Beauty
   If your boat was a person, its hair would be the vinyl, clear plastic, and canvas surfaces. Over time, sun and water damage will wear on these surfaces and give your boat that aged appearance we are trying to avoid. Replacing your canvas and cushion surfaces will breathe new life into your boat and make it look cared for:
2. Wax On, Wax Off
   Your boat’s skin, or, gel coating, will slowly wear off with time and exposure to the elements. A double coating of wax every spring is as important as applying sunscreen on a sunny day. Doing this routinely offers a seasonal protection from contaminants. And if you truly care about your boat’s upkeep, washing it down after every outing with boat soap containing carnauba wax will maintain a lustrous shine. If your gel coating already looks chalky and old, anti-oxidation agents like Meguiar’s #49 heavy-duty oxidation remover is an affordable fixer upper. Yellow water stains can be removed with Davis FSR stain remover and a little elbow grease. But if all this fails to rejuvenate your gel coating, contact the manufacturer to get the brand of gel coating applied to your boat model and don’t be afraid to ask for some helpful pointers. Often times a wet sanding can restore that new-boat shine, but be careful, certain brands don’t react well to sandpaper.
3. RUBRAIL REPLACEMENT
   If you’re trying to get rid of those unwanted scuff marks, a rubrail replacement is simpler than you might think. Applied heat can loosen the rubber to the point where you can pop it off. Replacement parts should snap right into place.
4. DECK DETAILING
   As time takes its toll on your boat, your deck shows its true age with the most visible wear. Coating the deck with a liner, such as Rhino Hide’s Flexible Tuff Hide II, is always a safe and cost-effective bet. Another upside…This coating utilizes rubberized beads that offer a non-slip surface.
5. BLEACH BURNS
   The sun isn’t the only culprit frying the skin of your boat. Bleach-based cleaners have a tendency to age your boat’s gel coating. If you do use cleaners with bleach, be sure to thoroughly rinse the surfaces you cleaned.
6. TAKE IT EASY
   Your boat is your baby, so treat it like one. You don’t bathe an infant with an SOS pad and acid, you use baby oil and soft fabrics. So when you clean your boat, stay away from stiff-bristled brushes. Rags, sponges and soft-bristled brushes are the way to go, especially when working on vinyl decals, gel coatings, and other glossy surfaces.