Archive for the ‘Boat and Engine Technical Tips’ Category

With the passing of the recent Labor Day holiday, many of us are faced with the ominous task of preparing our boats to be laid up for the winter. Winter can be harsh on a boat, and if you want to get out on the water next spring without any unwelcome surprises, it’s important to store it properly.

• HERE’S HOW YOU CAN WINTERIZE YOUR BOAT ENGINE

Fill the fuel tank with fresh non-ethanol gasoline. Add a sufficient amount of gasoline stabilizer which is specified for marine engines and then run the engine sufficiently to bring it up to normal operating temperature while allowing the treated/stabilized fuel to circulate through fuel system.

• LUBRICATION

Change oil and oil filter. Lubricate all items like Throttle and Shift Cables, Steering, Coupler, U-Joints, Transom, Gimbal, Propeller Shaft, etc.

• MARINE COOLING SYSTEMS

Flush the cooling system. Refer to each manufacturers specific flushing procedure as indicated in the owners manual. Drain seawater section of cooling system, as specified in the owners manual.

• FLAME ARRESTOR

Clean flame arrestor and vent hoses.

• GENERAL ITEMS

Service the batteries as required by the manufacturer of the battery. Wash/Clean the outside of engine and allow to dry. Repaint any areas where bare metal is exposed, and allow to dry. Completely cover/spray the engine with some type of corrosion inhibitor or wipe down with SAE 20W engine oil or spray with WD-40.

• STERNDRIVE AND TRANSOM

Inspect U-joint bellows for cracks or weathering.
Check the bellow hose clamps to ensure they are tight.
Check engine alignment.
Change sterndrive unit oil.
Make sure the Sterndrive is in the DOWN position. This is required not only for draining of the unit but also to ensure that the bellows do not take a set which can lead to pre-mature failure when returned to service.
Use a piece of wire to check that water drain holes in sterndrive unit are open and allowing drainage.
Clean sterndrive exterior surfaces and repaint any bare metal surfaces.
Cover the entire sterndrive with some type of corrosion inhibitor.

Read More about Winterization of Mercruiser Inboard & Sterndrive Engines

Read More about Winterization of Yamaha 4-stroke Outboards

COMMON PRODUCTS WHEN WINTERIZING YOUR BOAT

MARINE FUEL SYSTEMS SHOP NOW FLAME ARRESTOR SHOP NOW

COOLING SYSTEM SHOP NOW STRENDRIVE & TANSOM SHOP NOW

Not finding what you’re looking for? Need help? Contact us at 1-405-533-3812

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Inflatable luxury fishing motorboat wrapped in cover standing over trailer for winter period seasonal storage at backyard. Shrink-wrapped vessel winterized on parking.

Winter can be harsh on a boat, and if you want to get out on the water next spring without any unwelcome surprises, it’s important to store it properly. Not only will cold water and ice cause expensive damage, but improper boat storage can also leave it vulnerable to theft or damage from a storm. When spring arrives next year, you don’t want to spend time scrubbing mildew and fixing the engine – you’d rather be all set to get back on the boat. Here is how to store your boat through the winter.

Secure all items and seal your boat

The right boat storage includes removing any valuable items from your boat, including electronic guidance systems if possible, to protect them from extreme weather and theft. You should also remove anything that could be prone to mildew and mold over the winter, such as flotation devices. Once you’ve removed all loose items, wrap the boat using boat wrap and cover it with a custom waterproof cover that fits snuggly. If the cover is too loose and saggy, water can collect in parts and damage the cover. Even if you’re storing your boat inside, a cover can protect it from unexpected roof leaks.

Fuel treatment

Fuel treatment is also a necessary step for boat storage. Treating your boat’s fuel with a stabilizer will keep it fresh for long-term storage (usually up to 24 months). This will prevent you from having to waste a tank of fuel at the end of each season.  Also, it guarantees quick and easy start-ups after storage.  Additionally, it ensures that the carburetors and fuel injectors won’t be clogged with varnish deposits. This kind of build-up can ruin your fuel system.

Boat Lift

Boat lifts offer you the ability to store your boat high and dry yet ready for use in minutes. However, lifts do not fare well in hurricanes and strong nor’easters. Wind waves and surges can shift the boat, and torrential rains or heavy snow can increase the boat’s weight to the point of breaking the lift. One way to avert these problems is to keep your boat on a trailer—but if you desire to keep your boat on a lift, make sure that the lift is well maintained, of the correct capacity, and that the boat is properly covered to keep rain and snow out.

Because boats stored on lifts are surrounded by air, they are more vulnerable to a sudden freeze than boats surrounded by water. This means that you will either have to winterize the boat or implement measures, such as a bilge or engine room heater, to avert damage should a freeze occur.

Engine Drainage

Most boat engines use surrounding water to cool the engine as it runs.  If the engine isn’t drained properly, residual water in the cooling chambers can freeze, expand, and crack the engine block and manifolds. This can spell disaster for your wallet, as repairs for this kind of damage can run you $5,000-$20,000 depending on the kind of boat you have.

The boat storage balancing act

Keep your boat off the ground during winter storage. Use wood blocks or keel stands to support the keel, paying careful attention to the load-bearing areas. Make sure the boat is up high enough to keep propellers and rudders off the ground.

Add several jacks stands to balance the boat, and make sure those stands are supported against wind and storms. If you opt for outdoor storage, cover the boat with a tarp or vinyl cover for protection from the elements. Make sure the cover is vented enough for airflow, but secure enough to stay on your boat all winter.

Remove your battery

This is the last step for proper boat storage. Because of inconsistent use during the summer months, your boat battery may not be fully charged each time you use it. The problem is compounded if you leave it in your boat while it’s stored for the winter. More than likely, your battery will be dead when spring arrives. It’s a good idea to remove your battery and store it in a warm dry place. Consider using a trickle charger to keep your battery in good shape during the winter months.

At Performance Products Technologies, we help you to keep your boat in good shape by offering you winterization products and guidelines. Contact us to learn more and get started.

I love my boat but the engines are on their last leg. Should I try and upgrade with new engines, or just sell the boat and start over?

This is one of the most common questions boaters are faced with today when its comes to replacing the engines in older model boats. There are a number of factors to consider when replacing the engine, so this Selection and Shopping Guide will help you drill down to see what option best fits your boat’s situation. It’s important to realize how the 2010 Marine Engine EPA regulations changed the overall topic of replacing the engine, so this is something every boat owner needs to be aware of.

• 1) Do you want a complete Bobtail Engine, Power Package Motor or just the Longblock?
• 2) Do you want a New Marine Motor or Remanufactured?

*SHOP ONLINE*
BOBTAIL ENGINES	POWER PACKAGE (PAR PAC) ENGINES	LONGBLOCK ENGINES

Selecting the Correct Model of Marine Engine for Beginners and/or Novice Boaters

There’s no shame in finding it difficult to distinguish one model 454 Marine Engine from another. Over the years the various marine manufacturers have changed both V6 and V8 engine models so many times it can be difficult even for Marine Engine distributors to properly identify the correct engine model for a customer. Typically, verifying the Engine Casting Number (link to block casting number location) along with the Cylinder Head Casting Number (link to head casting number location) is the best way to identify your Marine Engine correctly. Providing customers with solutions is where PPT stands above the other Marine Engine suppliers in providing technical assistance and information to help you properly determine the correct motor model for your application. PPT maintains a A+ rating with the BBB for one simple reason; WE TAKE CARE OF OUR MARINE ENGINE CUSTOMERS! Don’t be fooled by other Marine Engine retailers advertising 7 year warranties or 30% better fuel economy; those are simply gimmicks. The bottom line with Replacement Marine Engines is that you get what you pay for.

Marine Engines Technical Library

New vs Remanufactured Engines for Boat Repowering

Recent EPA requirements imposed this year on “NEW MARINE ENGINES” now require you to use a more expensive catalyzed engine when repowering your boat. However there are not any such requirements in place for repowering your boat with a REMANUFACTURED MARINE ENGINE. Therefore the following questions have been coming up repeatedly; Is a “rebuilt” engine the same as a factory remanufactured engine? What can I expect regarding the quality of a remanufacured marine engine versus new? What is the warranty on a remanufactured marine engine versus new? Here’s two very good videos that demonstrate why PPT does not handle rebuilt marines engines rather only the factory remanufactured product lines from both Mercury Marine and Firstmate Marine.

Mercruiser Remanufacturing

Local Rebuild Vs. Factory Remanufacture

Topic: MerCruiser Exhaust Manifold Replacement

Customer Question:

“I am doing a resurrection project on a Formula 1986 357 SR1 , twin MerCruiser 454 motors, with KAMMA surface drives. They need replacement marine exhaust manifolds and risers. I also need to replace the thru hull exhaust hoses that connect from the exhaust riser to the thru hull tips located at the transom of the boat. My current thru hull exhaust tips do not have the internal shutters so I’m interested in upgrading to the tips that contain the exhaust shutters that help prevent water ingestion or reversion.

I will also need the external exhaust flappers that go over the outside of the thru hull exhaust tips. The boat is moored in salt water, with possible access to fresh water flush. We really need to watch our budget with this repower project, so value marine exhaust products are required. Could you provide me with some options we could utilize for this piece of the boat restoration project? Thank you, and regards.”

Response:

Wow! This boat restoration project sounds like it will be very interesting and a lot of fun. Water ingestion (including water reversion) is definitely a concern with the big block 454 and 502 marine engines that have teh more aggressive camshafts. I will include links below not only to my recommended product options but also links to several good technical articles aimed at addressing your technical concerns. I would recommend going with the EDP coated exhaust manifolds as these are not only coated externally but double EDP coated on the inside water passages as well.

What is Water Ingestion….Read More

What are MerCruiser Exhaust Resonators….Read More

How to Determine the Proper Exhaust Riser Height….Read More

Thru Hull Exhaust…..Read More

Exhaust Flappers….Read More

EDP Coated MerCruiser Exhaust Manifolds and Risers….Read More

SELOC MARINE REPAIR & TUNE-UP MANUALS

Do-It-Yourself Boater’s agree that trying to repair and do maintenance on your outboard motor or Stermdrive without the proper manual is simply not a wise service repair option. All of the major marine product manufacturers such as Mercury Marine, Yamaha, Suzuki, Volvo Penta, Honda and others agree that SELOC is the only option for after-market repair and Tune-Up manuals. SELOC offers the only marine tune-up manuals to be certified as accurate and complete.

SELOC manuals are laid out for the everyday mechanic and therefore easy to understand with step-by-step, illustrated procedures for the complete dismantling, repair, and assembling of outboard motors or sterndrives. The main images and illustrations used are typically photographs that were taken when the actual work was being performed and outlined. Each numbered step procedure is accompanied by the same numbered photograph or illustration making Seloc manuals easy to follow.

Marine Service Manual Index

Select the following link to open the SELOC Table of Contents which makes it simple to lookup and order the proper repair manual for your Boat Engine or Sterndrive…..Service & Repair Manual Index

What Equipment Will I Need for Winterizing my Boat?

Where can I buy the professional type boat winterization kit/tank that many of the boating service centers use? This along with other common Boat Winterization questions will be covered in this PPT Technical Article.

The following parts list will allow you to put together a winterization system together for your own use. Otherwise you can purchase one of the Manual Systems (read more). Along with the flush hardware you’ll need a standard set of wrenches and screw drivers, muffs (motor flusher), along with a few supplies such as Engine Rust Inhibitor and Fuel System Stablizer.

PARTS LIST – PPT Winterization Tank System (Used in Tech Videos)

• Tank
• 750 GPH Pump
• Toggle Switch
• Battery Clips
• Fuse Holder
• 5amp ATO/ATC Fuse
• Electrical Butt Connectors
• (2) 16-14 gauge wires – Length is determined by if you’re using the battery in the boat [longer] or an auxiliary battery on the ground [shorter] – Obtain Locally
• Auxiliary battery or use battery in the boat – Obtain Locally

What’s The Process?

The following list is the basic checklist we recommend following when performing either sterndrive, inboard, 2-cycle or 4-cycle boat engine winterizations. Although many of the details within each step differ for each marine engine manufacturer (example Mercruiser, Volvo Penta, Crusader, Marine Power, etc) or outboard motor manufacturer (example Mercury Marine, Yamaha, Suzuki, Evinrude, Honda) the basic steps and results of what needs to be completed remain the same.  For example draining the water from a 1985 MerCruiser 4.3L engine requires different steps vs draining the water from the cooling system of a 2005 model 4.3L MPI engine equipped with one of Mercruiser’s manual or automatic drain systems. The fact that the inboard engine needs to be drained is the same but the step by step process differs. It is very IMPORTANT to review your owners manual to make certain you don’t overlook anything in particular when working through these specific steps. (Note: By using the PPT website and searching either the Online MerCuiser Parts Catalog or Mercury Outboard Parts Diagrams you can quickly locate your inboard, outboard engine or sterndrive model and then order  the service manual or owners manual by selecting the “Service and Support Material” Assembly Diagram.)

IMPORTANT: The steps listed below are best performed in the order specified below.

STERNDRIVE & INBOARD MODELS

• Add stabilizer to fuel tank (See manufacturer suggestions regarding how many ounces/gallon)
• Start engine and allow it to warm up
• Drain gear lube
• Drain engine oil
• Drain water
• Block X 2
• Manifold X 2
• “J” hose
• Oil cooler
• Fuel cooler
• Transmission cooler
• Sea water pump (belt driven)
• Drain on transmission
• Heater
• Drain on-board water tanks (ballasts, sinks, showers ext…) and fill with propylene glycol
• Change oil filter (date and initial)
• Change fuel filter (date and initial)
• Fill engine with oil
• Fill lower unit with gear lube
• Grease gimbal bearing
• Start and run engine on 100% Propylene Glycol
• Fog engine (Carb Engines Only)
• Tag engine belt (orange)
• Zip tie key to steering wheel
• Remove bilge plug from back of boat
• Trim up drive
• Turn off battery switch or remove negative battery cable
• Tag bow eye (owners name, date, and initial)

2 CYCLE OUTBOARD MOTORS

• Add fuel treatment and stabilizer to fuel tank(s) as required per gallon.
• Change water separating fuel filter, if equipped or empty sediment/water bowl if equipped.
• Run engine up to operating temperature, circulating stabilized fuel through fuel system and fog engine with a rust
• ventative solution to protect internal engine parts.
• Drain and re-fill lower unit gear lube (insures elimination of water in the lower unit which could freeze and burst).
• Grease engine fittings.

4 CYCLE OUTBOARD MOTORS

• Add fuel treatment and stabilizer to fuel tank(s) as required per gallon.
• Change water separating fuel filter, if equipped or empty sediment/water bowl if equipped.
• Change engine oil and filter.
• Run engine up to operating temperature, circulating stabilized fuel through fuel system and fog engine with a rust preventative solution to protect internal engine parts.
• Drain and re-fill lower unit gear lube (insures elimination of water in the lower unit which could freeze and burst).
• Grease engine fittings.

Need More Help? Check Out These Popular Winterization Videos?

*For over 14 years Serious Boaters have been going to PPT’s Youtube Channel for Do-It-Yourself Boating Repair Videos – Over 1 Million Views and Counting!

Topic: Mercruiser Exhaust Manifolds for the 4.3L V6 Engine (Single Piece vs Two Piece)

Question: My existing Mercruiser 4.3L V6 engine has a manifold and elbow/riser that is combined in one piece. However I cannot seem to locate the exact replacement for this manifold. Can I simply replace this with the older style 2 piece manifold and riser?

Background
Along with the release of the 1996 “Vortec” model 4.3L V6 engines (Read More) Mercruiser made significant changes to the exhaust system. The purpose of this technical article is to address the history behind these exhaust system changes, as well as provide directions about how you can replace the discontinued components on your existing Mercrusier 4.3L V6 engine.

The number one reason behind the decision to switch to a SINGLE PIECE exhaust manifold was to offset the increased cost of the new Vortec 4.3L V6 base engine from General Motors. By eliminating the INTERMEDIATE EXHAUST ELBOW along with the 2nd required EXHAUST BELLOWS MerCruiser was able to save approximately $50/engine. When you factor in the popularity of the Mercrusier 4.3L V6 Engine that represented approximately 25k annual units being produced you see how quickly the cost savings $’s added up at $50 x 25,000 = BIG $. However, as quickly as the potential savings could add up the opportunity was equally present for huge losses if problems were encountered in production that prevented delivery of the product.

Challenges to the Mercruiser Single Piece Exhaust Manifold Design
Exhaust Alignment – There were a variety of difficulties in producing this significantly more complex Single Piece Manifold casting. However, other overall product challenges presented themselves primarily as follows;

1) Alignment – How to maintain alignment between the exhaust outlet and the inlet of the Bullhorn (also known as the Y-Pipe). This was a huge challenge when you realize the Y-Pipe is connected and floats with the plane of the “Outer Transom Plate” whereas the engine is located off of and floats with the plane of the “Inner Transom Plate”. Therefore, the potential not only for the normal dimensional variation within the Exhaust Manifold casting and machining itself but also the wide variation of Transom Thicknesses and Transom Angles with so many different boat builders. With this challenge at hand Mercruiser designed a new Y-Pipe that had a larger opening to accommodate for this positional variation. Therefore, the engine/exhaust manifold outlet could fluctuate from front to rear however the outlet would always fall within the enlarged opening of this new Y-Pipe p/n 807130A7 (Read More). This then required a new Exhaust Bellows p/n 32-807458T (Read More) as well as a new Water Shutter p/n 807166A2 (Read More) to accommodate the larger Y-Pipe opening.

2) Casting Method – The existing 2 piece exhaust manifolds were being cast using the traditional “Green Sand” method of producing dual-wall castings. However, this manufacturing process was not adequate for producing the much larger one piece exhaust manifold and riser combination casting. Therefore, the casting method chosen for this new design was the Lost Foam or Evaporative Casting process. This process requires producing a Foam pattern that is representative of the part being produced, which is then inserted into the casting flask while being surrounded by core sand.  Molten iron is then poured into the flask and burns out the foam leaving the cast product within the core sand. Producing good Single Piece Manifolds proved very difficult even with the Lost Foam casting process as the amount of gas released by the foam patterns made the internal sand cores float through the adjoining wall thickness.  To make a long story short this reulted in a high scrap rate which ultimately drove the ongoing product costs too high.

**SOLUTION
By the end of the life cycle for the Single Piece exhaust manifold there were other problems that developed which lead to the ultimate decision to abandon the design altogether. Aside from escalating product costs the other main issue with the Single Piece Exhaust design was related to more severe instances of “Water Reversion” (Read More).

Replacement 4.3L Manifolds – Painted or Coated (Read More)
Replacement 4.3L Elbow/Riser – Painted or Coated (Read More)
Complete Exhaust Manifold & Riser Kit’s – Cast Iron & Aluminum (Read More)

Part Diagrams and Schematics

2 Piece Exhaust Manifold Diagram & Related Components (Read More)

2 Piece Exhaust Y-Pipe/Bullhorn Diagram & Related Components (Read More)

1 Piece Exhaust Manifold Diagram & Related Components (Read More)

1 Piece Exhaust Manifold Diagram & Related Components (Read More)

TOPIC: Boat/Motor Winterization

QUESTION: I used to own a boat equipped with a Mercury Outboard Motor which made winterization very simple. However I recently purchased a Sea Ray boat that is equipped with a MerCruiser Inboard/Outboard and Alpha Gen 2 Sterndrive. I’m looking to winterize my boat this year for the first time.  Is there a kit available that includes all of the items needed to do this winterization.   

RESPONSE: Below are the parts you need to build our Antifreeze Tank and Pump System. If you have a basic knowledge of 12volt wiring and how to install a simple switch into a circuit you can purchase the components and assemble it yourself.  It is not that difficult to assemble and all of the major components can be purchased from our website.

PARTS LIST:
Tank & Hose- http://tinyurl.com/pph57fb

750 GPH PUMP- http://tinyurl.com/n9mur3n -the pump threads right into the threaded tank cap – cut the excess off after installed

Toggle Switch- http://tinyurl.com/pbcyfdc

Battery Clips- http://tinyurl.com/olalnkz

Fuse Holder- http://tinyurl.com/oha2qrv

5amp ATO/ATC Fuse- http://tinyurl.com/nkcx6pj

Electrical Butt Connectors- http://tinyurl.com/p4y28yx

(2) 16-14 gauge wires [red & black] – Length is determined by if you’re using the battery in the boat [longer] or an auxiliary battery on the ground [shorter] – Obtain Locally

Auxiliary battery or use battery in the boat – Obtain Locally

TOPIC: Mercruiser 4.3L Longblock Replacement and Horsepower Upgrade Options

QUESTION: I have a 1997 rinker captiva 192. Merc # K170XXX. The block cracked over the winter. I am looking to replace the stock 2 barrel carb motor with hopefully a upgraded 4.3. I don’t want to go radical but justa increase in performance. Pricing is critical. I am looking for a long block. So what do you recommend. I do not want to have to modify anything in the boat. Thanks, Scott 

RESPONSE: There are a couple of options you could potentially go with and using the links below you can review these options. The 1st option listed below is the remanufactured Vortec 4.3L longblock. This product includes a 24 month warranty and comes without tin ware (oil pan, valve covers, timing chain cover, etc) but does include a full gasket set as is needed with the re-assembly. The second option is the New version of the Vortec 4.3L longblock. As illustrated in the picture this option does include the tin ware. The new longblocks carry a 12 month warranty. The third option is the Power Package which includes a new Vortec 4.3L longblock along with a 4 barrel carburetor as well as the complete ignition system. If you are currently running the standard 2 barrel carbureted version this is a great upgrade option to give you a little more top end horsepower. The fourth and final option is the 262 HP longblock. This is a balanced and blueprinted 4.3L longblock that produces 262 Hp and 300 Ft-Lb of torque. This upgraded performance option will require an upgraded fuel & ignition system to support the requirements of the additional performance.

Link to Reman Block
http://tinyurl.com/qblz2p7

Link to New Longblock
http://tinyurl.com/qds43yb

Link to New 4 BBL Carb Power Package
http://tinyurl.com/ox7uyzu

Link to High Perf Block (Requires a new carb and ignition system)
http://tinyurl.com/ldz989x